Thailand has planned to run Chinese-made high-speed railway systems designed to have time-saving, inexpensive trains for long-distance commuters shuttling between Bangkok and the northern city of Chiang Mai and between the capital and the northeastern province of Nong Khai, a senior official said here on Friday.

Thai Transport Minister Chatchat Sitthipan disclosed that the Thai government has decided to go ahead with the multi-billion-U.S. dollar railway projects under which the so-called Hexie Hao or China Railway Highspeed train system will be used.

Construction of the initial stage of the railway project for the Bangkok-Chiang Mai route is scheduled to begin by the middle or second half of next year. The railway project for both routes will be completed until 2015, he said.

Feasibility studies for the train projects have been conducted by Chinese, the transport minister said, adding that China has offered to transfer the railway technology to Thai engineers and other railway personnel.

China's Deputy Railway Minister Lu Chunfang has met with Thai Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra at the Thai Government House to discuss the Sino-Thai railway cooperation project for the Bangkok- Chiang Mai route, estimated to cost 10 billion U.S. dollars, and that for the Bangkok-Nong Khai route, estimated to cost 6.6 billion U.S. dollars.

Chatchat said commuters will spend only three and a half hours shuttling between Bangkok and Chiang Mai aboard the high-speed train, compared to a dozen hours currently consumed by a "rapid" train of the State Railway of Thailand.

"The high-speed train between Bangkok and Chiang Mai will run 250 to 300 kilometers per hour through terrains and tunnels in the mountains, particularly those in Uttaradit province, to save the traveling time for daily commuters. Given the short-cut way, that route will be shortened from 753 km to 680 km," said the transport minister.

"The 615-km Bangkok-Nong Khai route will consume no more than three hours on a similar high-speed train," he said.

According to Chatchat, the train fare will be 2.1 baht (7 U.S. cents) per km on a 250-km-per-hour train ride and 2.5 baht (8.3 U. S. cents) per km on a 300-km-per-hour train ride.

A start-up stretch of the Bangkok- Chiang Mai route has been designed to cover a 342-km distance between Bangkok and Pitsanuloak province, lying roughly halfway between the capital and the northern city.

Bang Sue train station in the capital will be upgraded to become a hub for the high-speed train systems.

Importantly, the Chiang Mai railway might be connected with China's southwest city of Kunming and the Nong Khai railway might be linked with a railway system in Vientiane, the Lao capital, the minister said.

The Thai railway system would also be connected with those in Myanmar and Malaysia, he said.

Bhutan is more than a sensation. With a population of just less than 700,000 people, the Himalayan Kingdom east of Nepal and Sikkim is some 38,394 square kilometers large and dominated by steep and high mountains in the north of the country south of Tibet, while a network of swift rivers form deep valleys in the central part and drain into the Indian plains of West Bengal and Assam in the south.

I gladly jumped on the invitation to attend the 4th South and Southeast Asian Association for the Study of Culture and Religion (SSEASR) Conference being held in the capital Thimphu from June 30 to July 3, 2011. Under the theme “Mountains in the Religions of South and Southeast Asia: Place, Culture, and Power” the international conference was co-sponsored by the International Association for the History of Religions (IAHR), hosted and co-organized by the Institute of Language and Culture Studies (ILCS), Royal University of Bhutan, Thimphu, Bhutan.

With a return air ticket by Drukair Royal Bhutan Airlines (some 20,000Baht) and a limited visa approval form, I arrived on June 28 somehow at 4.00 o’clock early morning at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok to check in for flight KB127, which left at 6.50 o’clock on time. There was a short transit stop at Dhaka International Airport in Bangladesh before landing at Paro International Airport 10.40 local time. Upon arrival immigration officers endorse your visa approval form and stamp your passport for a fee of 20USD.

The Paro valley, some 2,280 meters high and located in the western part of Bhutan, is more than beautiful. It is visually stunning and an amazing introduction into a hidden Shangri-La. Dominated by a huge fortress called “dzong” an abundance of rice fields can be seen, while small hamlets and isolated fruit farms dot the forested landscape. Bhutan’s official language is called “Dzongkha” because it is the language spoken in such a fortress, while the Bhutanese proudly call their country “Druk Yul” or Land of the Thunder Dragon and themselves as Drukpas.

The distance from Paro International Airport, which is also served from Kolkata, Delhi, and Kathmandu, to Thimphu is some 50 kilometers. Passing Paro town, which was only built in 1985, and since 2005 has undergone unprecedented development, the road to Thimphu reaches the Chuzom intersection, where the Paro River meets the Thimphu River and the road splits south to Phuentsholing at the Bhutanese-Indian border.

From a flag-poled bridge, people can see three chortens (pagodas) with different styles of architecture commonly found in the country, such as Nepalese, Tibetan and Bhutanese. Seen geographically, Nepalese live in the sub-tropical south, while Tibetans and Bhutanese live further up north.

The narrow road to Thimphu is embedded in a rather arid and rocky landscape and ends at a gate of the new expressway, which cuts through the rice fields, leading to Thimphu town in 15 minutes, which is becoming more and more urbanized. The altitude is here 2,350-2,450 meters, while the town counts 100,000 inhabitants.

The best way to explore Thimphu is by foot. Along the main street Norzim Lam there are the clock tower square, antique shops, art galleries, a policed roundabout, the Plums Café, a myriad of small hotel-restaurants and shopping centers. I settled down in the Tandin Hotel, where nice rooms were available for up to 20USD. Nearby were an Internet place, a cinema, as well as “The Hub” as a typical entertainment place. Even modern discos are popping up in the basement of some hotels. There, you can see young Bhutanese in modern outfit, while during daytime both “Gho” for men and “Kira” for women are the national dress.

The people focus very much on responsible tourism to respect and preserve the culture and traditions within their natural environment. This attitude contributes to the valuable conservation of the natural and cultural heritage and improves the well-being of the citizens within the overall concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH). Actually, Bhutan is known as the place where happiness is more important than money.

The conference started on June 30 at 9 o’clock with an inauguration ceremony at the Royal Institute for Tourism and Hospitality (RITH), located in uphill Motithang, where all the sessions were conducted. Some 220 international delegates from more than 60 countries participated. The program listed four keynote addresses about mountains, which give inspirations and are the link to heaven. After that, some 31 panels followed within the next four days, just to mention a few outstanding presentations and speakers:

1. South Viet Nam: From That Son Mountain to Hoa Hao Budhism by Professor My Van Tran, University of South Australia.
2. Myths and Rites of Mount Kassak in Luang Prabang by Dr. Amphay Dore, Independent Researcher from France.
3. Arunacala, a sacred mountain in South India by Hidenari Nishio, Kinki University, Osaka, Japan.
4. Mountains and their Spirits in Traditional Lahu Cosmography, Belief and Ritual Practice by Professor Anthony Walker, Universiti Brunei Darussalam, Brunei.
5. Mountainous rivers, forests, and a thousand shivalingas: defining sacred space in India and Cambodia by Dr. Ratna Lahiri, Independent Scholar, New Delhi, India.
6. The Hintang Archeological Park, Hua Phan, Lao PDR by Dr. Alan Potkin, Northern Illinois University, DeKalb, Illinois, USA.

Social events included the Welcome Dinner Buffet hosted by Vice Chancellor of the Royal University of Bhutan, Dasho Dr. Pema Thinley, on June 30, Dinner and Cultural Show at the Fine Arts Department on July 1, Local Tour in Thimphu in the afternoon of July 2 including dinner, and last not least, the Farewell Dance Show and Dinner Buffet around a bonfire at RITH on July 3.

After the successful ending of the conference – the 5th SSEASR Conference will be at Manila in the Philippines on 28-31, 2013 – there still was enough time to stay in Thimphu and during sightseeing, the following places should not to be missed:

1. National Memorial Chorten: The white-washed pagoda was built in 1974 by Her Majesty Ashi Phuntsho Choden Wangchuk in the memory of her son, Bhutan’s late 3rd King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk, who is regarded as the father of modern Bhutan. The painting and statues inside the monument provide deep insight into the Tantric form of Mahayana Buddhism (Vajrayana).
2. Semtokha Dzong: Built in 1629 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, who united Bhutan as a national state, the impressive fortress is a treasure house of “mandala” and “thangka” paintings about seven kilometers away from Thimphu.
3. Vegetable Market: Every weekend, many farmers and small business vendors gather on the bank of the Thimphu River to sell their products and souvenir articles.
4. Tashicho Dzong: Known as “fortress of the glorious religion” the dzong was rebuilt and redesigned in 1955 after moving the capital to Thimphu from Punakha further east. It houses the main secretariat building and the central monk body in the summer months. The dzong is also open to visitors with a special permit or during the annual Thimphu Tshechu Festival, where a series of traditional dances are performed by trained dancers and monks.

Time to leave Thimphu came quickly. I took the short time to inspect the luxury Amankora Resort, a 16-suite lodge close to the capital’s sights, while remaining a quiet retreat. I met with its American GM Mr. John E. Reed, who revealed that Amankora offers guided treks and excursions by car throughout the pristine valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey Phobjikha, and Bumthang. Reasons to come back as quick as possible!

On July 5, there was a post-conference tour to Paro, which I could join to spend the last night in Bhutan there to explore the place more intimately. The buses left early in the morning on 8.00 o’clock from Thimphu and we reached Drukgyel Dzong, some two and half hours later. This dzong was originally built in 1646 by Zhabdrung Ngawang Nmagyal to commemorate his victory over a Tibetan invasion. The dzong caught fire in 1951 and now only ruins remain, but the dzong is located at a strategic point, where the trade route from Tibet enters Paro valley. On a clear day, one can see the beautiful view towards the majestic mountain Jomolhari, which is more than 7,300 meters high.

The highlight of every visit in Paro is the sightseeing place of the famous Taktsang Monastery, also called Tiger’s Nest. Built amazingly on a cliff, it is said that Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava arrived here on the back of a tigress in the 8th century to spread Buddhism. The monastery built later in 1692 caught fire in April 1998 that damaged the main structure of the building and some religious objects, but the monastery has been restored to its former glory and can be reached on a well maintained path some 800 meters above the valley floor. Padmasambhava had died in Nepal but his body was brought back to Taktsang and is now sealed inside a chorten.

We also made a stop at Kyichu Lhakhang, which is one of the 108 temples built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gyampo in the 7th century to subdue the ogress that lay across the whole of the Himalaya. In the main twemple hall, one could marvel at a statue of the goddess Tara and Mahakala, the god of time and death.

Due to a nearby cremation ceremony, we were eager to leave the place very early to reach Paro town and have a last lunch buffet with cheese and green chilies at the Holiday Home Hotel. The whole afternoon was then reserved to visit the National Museum, which was located on a ridge, overlooking the huge Paro Dzong in the valley.

Unlike the rectangular shape of the Bhutanese dzongs, the museum’s collection is housed in the conical Ta Dzong built in the 17th century as a watch tower. Since 1968, Ta Dzong was established as the National Museum of Bhutan and holds a fascinating exhibition of cultural and artistic artifacts of Bhutanese civilization, heritage and traditions, such as handcrafted copper teapots, bronze urns, arms, jewelry, textiles, thankas and Buddhist sculpture, iron chains and even a gallery of Natural History.

Furthermore, there is a permanent mask exhibition in a building nearby. There is great merit in viewing the sacred mask dances and even merely watching such dances is considered a spiritual experience in itself. Another special exhibition on some royal photographs highlights the past centenary celebration in 2008, which marks a century of peace and prosperity for the people of Bhutan under the rule of their “Five Monarchs” and also ensures a bright and prosperous future.

The current monarch, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuk ascended to the Golden Throne at a very historic moment, when the country had just adopted a kind of democracy. In October 2011, the King will marry accordingly and is ready to maintain the precarious balance of social prosperity among the people of Bhutan in spite of the advancements in the field of economic development.

The last night in the country I was lucky to spend in the prestigious “Hotel Olathang Paro” which was established in 1974 for the guests invited to the coronation of the 4th King of Bhutan His Majesty Jigme Singye Wangchuk, who critically acclaimed the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH), which places happiness of the people above all other development achievements and is now well received globally.

The architectural heritage design of the hotel within a pine forest on top of a small hill presents a purely Bhutanese style difficult to forget. At the same time, the modern “dewa” Spa & Wellness touches on the traditional Bhutanese art of healing and ensures guests a very comfortable stay. When I left the Paro valley next morning with Drukair flight KB140 at around 11.00 o’clock via Gauhati in Assam, India to Suvarnabhumi in Bangkok, I really left an unbelievable paradise behind.

It was 5 o'clock in the morning, when some 20 passengers of the 3-week river cruise of the RV Katha Pandaw met at the lobby of the Chatrium Hotel in Yangon, Myanmar on September 1, 2012. Most of the passengers came from far away Australia and the United Kingdom (UK) expecting one of life's great travel experiences to do, namely a rare river expedition on two of Myanmar's watery highways: Chindwin and Ayeyarwady!

Expectations were running high, when we boarded a bus equipped with a breakfast box and leaving the popular Chatrium Hotel near Yangon's Royal Lake behind. We headed straight to the airport to catch an early morning flight with Air Bagan via Mandalay to Kalaymyo, a town in remotest Myanmar at the foot of the elusive Chin Hills near the border to India. Our English speaking Burmese guide "Daniel" introduced himself and off we flew to arrive in Kalaymyo already at 9 o'clock in the morning.
Looking on a new Myanmar map, we realized that Kalaymyo is a strategic town, where the only highway passes out of Central Myanmar to the border town of Tamu in order to reach India's northeastern provinces. To follow to the far up north of Myanmar only the wild Chindwin River is there. The terrain is hilly and forested. So we boarded two very old Japanese buses to drive to Kalaywa in the east to reach the valley of the Chindwin, where the embarkation on board the RV Katha Pandaw took place.
The RV Katha Pandaw is one of the latest additions to the ever growing PANDAW fleet. Since 1995, Pandaw ships have pioneered the great rivers of Southeast Asia and running now on the mighty Mekong River in Cambodia and Viet Nam as well as in Myanmar. Each ship is built in brass and teak by local craftsmen and has ultra shallow drafts that enable to ply into unknown waters. Each vessel is some 60 meters long with a more than 11 meter beam. All ships have cabins on a main and upper deck, saloon, dining place and an observation area. All Pandaw ships have a crew between 15-25 members under European management. Special international health and safety standards are maintained.
After our first daily lunch on board the RV Katha Pandaw, we already went ashore for sightseeing and took a walk through Kalaywa with its 20,000 inhabitants, markets and quaint wooden architecture. In the evening, Captain U Maung Soe and the entire crew invited to a welcome cocktail and the first fine dinner on board. The adventure started next morning.

The Chindwin River rivals the more famous Ayeyarwady River in beauty and romance. It is navigable for some 380 miles and even shallower than the Ayeyarwady. But during the annual monsoon season from July to October it is flowing faster to form whirlpools and uncontrollable eddies. Actually, the Chindwin River excursion can only be managed during the high water levels in August and September with experienced local pilots on board. Furthermore, it is too risky to run at night.
Our first leg of the river cruise went upriver from Kalaywa to Kindat, a stretch of some 44 miles. Note that Myanmar has changed most of the old British location names, but still keeps to the mileage system to measure distances! In the morning we visited the charming river village of Gazat and reached Kindat in the late afternoon. It was here that in 1911 the German explorer couple, Christine and Lucien Scherman, was welcomed by the British Deputy Commissioner, Mr. Grant Brown, who resided there in his formal administration place. Today the local life still seems unchanged.
From Kindat next morning we continued to Yuwa village, where the Yu River drains the Kubu Valley. The walk was muddy but exciting, passing typical wooden Burmese family cottages. Life here goes on undisturbed supported by a healthy domestic economy. Rice fields abound in the shadow of a myriad of Buddhist pagodas. People are all outmost friendly. In the evening, we reached the village of Sittaung, where was the final resting place of a number of the colonial Irrawaddy Flotilla Company (IFC) steamers - a scupper there in 1942, when the Japanese had occupied the country.

On Day 4 (September 4), we reached the ancient Shan (Tai Yai) enclave of Thaungdut, which in British times still had a ruling prince (sawbwa) complete with a teak wood palace and court. A charming lady keeps her ancestors in old photographs. An impressive hill pagoda can be visited during a glimmering sunset. Finally, on the next day, we arrived in Homalin, which is 47 miles upriver from Thaungdut. Actually, the port town of Homalin was the northernmost destination on our Chindwin exploration and is home to a large Muslim community. It is the gateway to the upper part of the Chindwin River up to Hkamti, where the well-known exotic Naga tribes have there jungle settlements. It was a wonder to find a functioning Internet Caf้ in Homalin.
As we only stayed for two hours in town, we left Homalin to the village of Shwe Pyi Aye some 19 miles downriver, where we moored for the night. South of Homalin the Chindwin Valley is sparsely populated and small villages can be reached only by boat. So next day, we passed the village of Paungbyin to walk around the bustling Strand-Road. In the village of Aukthaung we had a pleasant afternoon walk before continuing to the village of Khawe to overnight.

On Day 7 (September 7), we reached the old British administrative township of Mawleik with a population of 50,000 inhabitants. Some dilapidated colonial bungalows and mansions survived. Some churches and Chinese temples compete with Buddhist temples and pagodas, as we enjoyed a Myanmar "tuk tuk" drive through the town. In the afternoon, we continued to the village of Shwe Taung and moored overnight at Gaung Hti Village after a run of 87 miles on the river. We were "villaged out" and enjoyed the fine food for dinner as usual with many glasses of red wine and a birthday cake.

Next day, on the long way to Monywa, we passed two marvelous villages of Mingin Township, where we visited a beautifully carved teak monastery in Kan Village and another monastery complex in Kyi Taung Village to admire its intriguing gold lacquered paintings. In the evening we arrived in the town of Monywa, where modern civilization had reached us again.
On the following day we spent our time for sightseeing. In the morning we visited the outlying Phowin Taung archaeological site by coach to inspect mural paintings and Buddha statues in several niches and caves built inside the limestone cliffs and dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. An afternoon excursion near Monywa went to the famous Thanbodhi Temple with its million Buddha images. Nearby can be seen one of the longest reclining and standing Buddha images in today's modern world - next to a high pagoda to climb.

On Day 10 (September 10), we reached the confluence of the Chindwin River with the Ayeyarwady River, where the river widens and the forested hills give way for more farmland. Small fishing boats with primitive sails abound. On the horizon, volcanic Mount Popa can be seen, which is dominating the dry zone of Myanmar and the pagoda-studded plain of Bagan. The visit of Bagan is a must in every Mynamar travel itinerary! In a short afternoon tour, we visited the most impressive temples and pagodas, which were mostly built during the 11th to 13th centuries. In the evening, a traditional puppet theatre was shown on the upper deck of our ship.

Next day, we visited the golden Shwezigon Pagoda in the morning, one of the four tooth relic pagodas, which guard Bagan from all main directions of the compass. Also, a visit to a lacquer ware factory in New Bagan was part of the extensive sightseeing program. There was a silenced atmosphere on board, when we left Bagan for good in the afternoon and were cruising upriver again towards Mandalay, the last royal city of Burmese history.
To make a long story short, we passed the pottery village of Yandabo featuring a school and reached the landing place of Shwe Kyet Yet opposite the amazing Sagaing Hill on Day 13 in the morning. There followed a coach excursion to Mandalay to pay respect to the famous Mahamuni Buddha, whose bronze statue is covered all over in gold leaves. In the afternoon, we visited the old royal capital of Ava, which had returned to village life again, while the sunset was watched upon the unique teak U Bein Bridge in Amarapura. In the evening, a classical dance performance was presented on the ship by students of Mandalay University.

Early next morning we finally left Mandalay towards Kyaukmyaung, where big glazed water pots are produced in closed up kilns. In the early evening, our ship passed the 29 miles long "Third Defile" of the Ayeyarwady River. Geographically, the Ayeyarwady River rises high up in Myanmar's Kachin State and winds its way some 1,350 miles down to the Indian Ocean. Bhamo is the most northern point for larger river vessels and is only a few miles away from the border to China. The river's course is constantly changing and passing three defiles or gorges on its way to the nine-armed fertile delta area. Sandbanks constantly shift and the channels are mostly ill-defined.
On our way short off Bhamo, we had chances to experience the river at interesting market places, such as Kyar Nyat, Ti Gyaing, and Katha. Especially, Katha is one of the biggest teak wood logging towns and is the setting place of George Orwell's international bestseller "Burmese Days" book. An orientation tour by horse cart was in order. An old Baptist church and the fire brigade is still there. An elephant camp is operated nearby.

After Katha, on Day 17 (September 17), we reached the village of Kyun Daw, which is a island village, where countless pagodas prevail - just in view of the forested and hilly entrance to the 8 miles long "Second Defile" of the Ayeyarwady River. Next day, we passed through the fascinating and narrow gorge to watch the cliff of Parrot's Peak. Arriving at the new bridge near Sinkan, our passionate captain took a turn to return downriver again back to Mandalay, but not to miss to visit other sophisticated places, such as the village of Inn-Ywa, Tagaung - an old royal capital of the Pyu Culture - and last not least Mingun, where the Burmese King Bodawpaya wanted to erect the tallest pagoda of the world at the end of the 18th century. The pagoda was never finished thereafter, but the biggest ringing bell of the world can still be seen in Mingun.

Back on the Shwe Kyet Yet Jetty near Mandalay, our final night of the cruise had arrived. The captain and the crew gave an outstanding farewell cocktail and dinner reception. More than pleased and mesmerized during the 3-week river cruise, all the guests hoped to come back one day to Myanmar and, if possible, to join another Pandaw cruise. Nothing lasts forever, but there are always new opportunities to take.
In the early morning of September 21 (Day 21) and after a last refreshing breakfast, guests were transferred to the new international airport of Mandalay to fly back to Yangon or travel to other destinations in Myanmar. A real adventure was over - only to highly recommend for future travelers to come. To quote the poet Rudyard Kipling: "Come you back to Mandalay, where the old Flotilla lay."

It was some three hours after midnight on June 15, when four men arrived with a black water buffalo at the foot of Doi Kham Mountain to prepare for a sacrifice, whose tradition goes back to the time of the Buddha. Doi Kham is about 10km in the southwest of the city of Chiang Mai and located in Tambon Mae Hia, Amphoe Muang.

The moon was brightly shining just one night before getting full. Villagers of ten villages had purchased the buffalo a few days before out in San Patong and now one of the men killed the buffalo with a big knife to see how it falls in the forest near the Mae Hia Creek originating from the mountain. After one hour, they moved the animal to another platform with the head and its horns looking east. This was the start of the annual Pu Sae Ya Sae spirit worship ritual, which is nowadays more and more celebrated in style.

When I arrived at 6.00 o’clock in the morning, the outlay of the ritual ground was already prepared. The killed buffalo was located within a marked sacred space in front of twelve spirit houses, which were all named according to personalities, which are all worshiped according to the legend.

The legend tells of the old cannibal couple of Pu Sae Ya Sae, who lived on the two mountains of Doi Suthep and Doi Kham. Doi Suthep is north of Doi Kham. In the time, when Buddha was still living and traveled the world, he came to a village to take a rest. Thus, the Hindu Gods of Brahma and Indra blessed the village by bringing a rainstorm of gold and silver. As it rained gold at the village, the Buddha predicted that this place will be called Doi Kham meaning “Mountain of Gold” in the future. As it rained silver further north, the mountain there was called Doi Ngoen, meaning “Mountain of Silver” later to be named Doi Suthep.

At the village of Doi Kham, Buddha noticed a kind of the emptiness and asked for the reason. The villagers confirmed to him that there are two giants, who live on the two mountains as husband and wife. They often come to the village and catch people for food. That was the reason why it was so quiet and empty in the village.

Buddha felt sorry for the defenseless villagers and left to talk to the giants. He asked them to stop eating people and predicted that because of his teachings there will be soon many monks to live in this area. When the two giants heard Buddha’s plea, they asked him to allow them to have two buffalos per year instead of people and enlighten them with his teaching. Buddha blessed them by revealing them the five precepts and left.

So it comes that even today, in the ninth month of the Lan Na Thai lunar calendar, there still is a forest feast at the foot of Doi Kham for Ya Sae. Actually, a parallel feast for Pu Sae was held at the foot of Doi Suthep, but fell into oblivion a long time ago.

The ceremony started shortly after 8.00 o’clock, when some village women prepared the prescribed offerings to the spirits, containing pieces of bread, banana, popcorn, pork skin, sticky rice, sugarcane, tobacco and also water. There were bundles of 24 big silver and small gold candles each. Six trays for the spirit of the soil were prepared along 23 huge banana leave trays for the spirit houses, each containing six cigars and betel nuts.

In the south of the ritual area was a “sala” which slowly filled up with visitors to see the spirit medium, a Hang Dong villager in his thirties, who was to be possessed by the spirit of Ya Sae. At 8.20 o’clock the ritual master named “Achan Phromma” (77) appeared to read out the sacred texts to call the spirits to reside in the different houses. Actually, there were two spirit houses for the hermit “Suthep” which were erected in front of the others. Traditional music of drums, pipes, and xylophone filled the air.

At 9.00 o’clock the ceremony culminated with the hanging of the “Phra Bot” painting featuring a standing Buddha flanked by two disciples. The banner, which was brought in a black coffin, is as nine arms length and vehemently swings at a branch of a large tree with its back to the ritual ground facing north. Nine monks from Wat Pa Chi, sitting under a tent, recited holy incantations in the Pali language, while from a bronze Buddha image a white cotton string went through the hands of the monks ending in a silver bowl.

At 9.30 strange noises were heard from the nearby “sala” and the spirit medium was possessed by the spirit of Ya Sae in front of an altar covered with flower bowls. Shortly after, the spirit of “Suthep Ruessi” was called followed by the others. In the meantime the spirit medium had left the “sala” and straight went to the buffalo to feast on its meat and blood. Then he was guided by former Mayor Boonlert Buranupakorn and others to walk along the spirit houses to end up eating raw meat and drinking blood in a nearby tree. Some visitors tried to ask him for some lottery numbers (5-3-7) etc.

At 10.15 the spirit medium left the tree and continued his walk in trance to the “Phra Bot” to worship the Buddha. Going back to the “sala” more and more visitors got excited and tried to get in touch with the medium. Last not least, visitors who had the chance to sneak into the sacred area could ask the possessed man to fasten a white string around their wrists to get health and good luck.

At 11.00 o’clock the ceremony was finally over. While the “Phra Bot” banner was covered again in the coffin, fire truck, police car and food vendors slowly went home to wait for the spectacular feast again in the coming year.
Some visitors even went home with a small copy of the colorful “Phra Bot” purchased for some 300Baht = 10USD each.